The Ter is a river that runs through several counties Girona from the steepest slopes of the Pyrenees to the Costa Brava.Sus was guided along the path of several railroads.
Some, now missing, support for new routes for passengers calm. Such are the cases of carrilet from Olot to Girona and that concerns us here, who rose from Ripoll to Ogassa mines.
On the banks of river Ter amongst Romanesque jewels at the foot of the Pyrenees
LOCATION
Between Ripoll and the antique Toralles railways loading site
GIRONA
Lenght: 15 Km
Users:
Type of surface: Runway of asphalt surrounded by two tapes of grass
Natural Setting:
Valley of river Ter. Caballera range
Cultural Heritage:
Monastery of Santa Maria of Ripoll, Ethnographic Museum of Ripoll. Monastery of Sant Joan, Church of Sant Pol and Gothic Bridge in Sant Joan de les Abadesses
Infrastructure:
Greenway. 3 bridges. 1 tunnel
How to get there:
Ripoll:
Medium distance RENFE services, Barcelona-Puicerdá line.(*) Please ask the conditions of bike admittance in Renfe trains
Connections:
Girona:
70 Kms to Sant Joan de les Abadesses
Barcelona: 104 Kms to Ripoll
The
Iron and Coal Greenway starts out from
Ripoll train station. Before leaving the
platform it is worth taking a look over on
the other side of the tracks at the
beautiful station building serving the
railway line to Puigcerdá.
If we look northwards from the platform we
can see the old line to Sant Joan de les
Abadesses, the basis for this Greenway. We
leave the station by the main door and turn
left along Carrer del Progrés, which runs
around the outside of the station precinct.
From there we take the first street on the
left, Carrer del Ter, and barely 20m down
this street we turn into Passeig de Sant
Joan which is part of the old railway route.
After meeting the Carrer del Progrés again
on our right, we continue along the Passeig
de Sant Joan until we come to a roundabout.
Here the traffic density increases
dramatically due to the presence of the
C-151 bypass which occupies 2 kilometres of
the former rail bed of the railway.
This is where the Iron and Coal Greenway
proper begins. A tarmacked cycle path
flanked by two strips of grass runs parallel
to the road on its left hand side. The heavy
traffic that required cyclists to take care
when negotiating the roundabout is no longer
a problem. When the path crosses over to the
other side of the road a few hundred metres
further along, we use an underpass built
specifically for our Greenway.
The Greenway is for the exclusive use of
cyclists and walkers, and there are barriers
to keep motor vehicles from driving onto it.
The kilometre posts that mark the route are
the original ones from the old railway which
took Barcelona, not Ripoll, as its starting
point, so we should not be surprised when
the first kilometre post we see says 108 km.
Km 4
The
Greenway now makes its solitary way
eastwards. To our left, the powerful waters
of the river Ter provide an impassable
barrier separating us from the traffic
travelling on the opposite bank. With the
distant hum of the traffic on the far side
of the river in the background, we enter a
rural landscape of meadows and patches of
woodland that cling to the sides of the
Cabezo de las Fosas. Just before Km. 109,
some 4 kilometres out of Ripoll, we leave
behind the first area of forest and arrive
at a bridge where the railway passes over
the river Ter.
Once on the other side, the trail runs once
again between verdant meadows that only
change colour when they are covered in a
blanket of snow during the cold winters.
After this area of meadowland the old
railway line squeezes into a narrow space
between the river bank and the steep valley
side. The space is so narrow and the
hillside so unstable that the railway
engineers were forced to build a false
tunnel, 49m long, to protect the line from
landslips.
Km 6
At
the other end of the tunnel the Greenway
takes its leave of the river for a short
while. Here the entire width of the track
has been tarmacked to enable rural vehicles
to get to some nearby estates. Motor
vehicles may also use the magnificent iron
bridge that used to take the railway high
over the river Ter. The low railings and,
more importantly, the fact that the old
parallel service bridge no longer exists,
means that we need to take care when
crossing as we will be sharing the bridge
with other traffic.
Once safely on the other side, the trail
runs alongside and then crosses a busy road.
The crossing point used to be a real “black
spot” until relatively recently. Now an
underpass allows us to pass safely under the
road.
Once past this intersection the trail
regains its normal peacefulness and runs
between meadowland and the wooded valley
side. We gradually rise above the level of
the road, which continues along bottom of
the valley. The old railway track climbs
lofty embankments to gain enough height to
cross a ravine cut by the Torrente de Púdol.
It is worth stopping here a moment to admire
the view of the Sierra Caballera which rises
imperiously to the north. From here our
Greenway makes a straight line through dense
woodland before crossing the Torrente de
Ginebrosa just 500m later.
Km 10
We are now 10 km from Ripoll. The old
railway line enters the precinct of Sant
Joan de les Abadesses station which,
stripped of its railway tracks, presents a
somewhat naked aspect today. But this air of
nakedness is partly offset by the
refurbishment of the main station building
as an attractive restaurant whose décor
evokes its railway past.
Although the railway station is in the upper
part of the town, a trip down to the town
centre is a must. We cross the river Ter by
a spectacular gothic bridge, with its
typical pointed arch, and from there we can
lose ourselves in a maze of streets steeped
in Roman history.
The route towards Toralles crosses the
Ogassa road right after leaving the station.
From here we climb gently through the
Malatosca valley. The Malatosca river is a
tributary of the Ter which rises in the
Sierra Caballera, an omnipresent mountain
range lying to the north, where our Greenway
is heading. About 500m further on the old
railway crosses the road again, but the
intersections with this road are much less
dangerous than those we encountered some
kilometres back.
Km 12
Finally,
about 2 km from Sant Joan, the Greenway
comes to an end at the loading facility
known as the Cargadero de Toralles.
Under the title "The Secrets of the Green
Way" Consortium Girona Greenways trails
edited guides on the Greenways del Ferro i
Carbó, Carrilet Carrilet I and II. With
Girona Greenways as an axis, the guides will
also propose alternative routes that invite
to discover the natural and cultural
resources near greenways. These products are
sold in the points and route information on
the web www.viasverdesdegirona.org.
The route we propose is the northernmost end of the railway line that used to run all the way from Barcelona. The main purpose of the line was to carry coal from the slopes of the Sierra Caballera at Ogassa, a few kilometres away from the historic city of Sant Joan de les Abadesses, to the port and the wealthy industrial area of Barcelona.
In fact it was a mining company, Ferrocarril y Minas de San Juan de las Abadesas, which undertook to build this complicated line which climbed laboriously along the banks of the river Ter. The passenger service, inaugurated in 1880, only ran as far as Sant Joan. The line was run as an independent operation by the original company for a number of years before the powerful Compañía de los Ferrocarriles del Norte de España, or Compañía del Norte as it was popularly called, took the line over and integrated it into its extensive Catalan network.
In the 1920s the entire line was electrified, which helped to improve the railway’s performance. It was in that same decade when business on the final section of the line was boosted by the traffic generated by the new state-built Ferrocarril Transpirenaico line, from Ripoll to the Spanish-French border between Puigcerdà and Latour-de-Carol.
Later, the slump in the local mining industry caused the final section of this railway, between Ripoll and Ogassa, to go into a decline too. While at first this only affected goods traffic, the lack of maintenance and the gradual deterioration of the tracks caused a steady fall in passenger numbers. In 1980 all traffic was temporarily suspended for reasons of safety, and in 1985 the line was finally closed, never to reopen.
Three refreshing itineraries in the heart of the province of Girona, which will guide our steps from the Pyrenees to the sea, on the Costa Brava, following the tracks of three abandoned railways. The Vía Verde del Camí de Ferro, among some of the best Romanesque jewels; the Vía Verde del Carrilet, in the shadow of the volcanoes of La Garrotxa, which unfolds all its freshness until reaching the capital of Girona; and the Greenway of Girona-Costa-Brava, which leads us to the sea. In total, more than 100 km to get to know the beauty of this Catalan province in depth, by bike and on foot.
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