We will follow the route of the Astorga–Plasencia Railway, better known as that of the “Vía de la Plata,” through an idyllic landscape along the slopes of the Béjar mountains, declared a Biosphere Reserve.
This third route along this railway line features many attractions between the provinces of Caceres and Salamanca, passing through a luxuriant and diverse territory.
This Natural Way - Greenway has been implemented within the framework of the Natural Ways Programme of the Ministerio de Agricultura, Pesca y Alimentación. More info>>
Plasencia - Jarilla section: Plasencia, Oliva de Plasencia, Villar de Plasencia, Cabezabellosa and Jarilla (Cáceres).
Casas del Monte - Béjar section: Casas del Monte, Segura de Toro, Gargantilla, Aldeanueva del Camino, Hervás and Baños de Montemayor (Cáceres), Puerto de Béjar, Cantagallo and Béjar (Salamanca).
Length:65,60 km.
Users:
Type of surface:compacted gravel.
Natural setting:
The entire itinerary runs through the Ambroz Valley, along the slopes of the western limit of the Béjar mountains, declared, along with the neighbouring Francia mountains, a Biosphere Reserve. The landscape, characterised by deciduous woodland, features important environmental resources, such as chestnut trees, maples, service trees, oaks and hazelnut trees, along with the monumental cedar known as "Cedro de la Francesa." The area’s notable trees include the Temblar chestnut trees. There are natural swimming pools in several municipal districts.
Cultural heritage:
Plasencia:old and new cathedral, defensive walls and Plaza Mayor de Plasencia, aqueduct. Palantina architecture. Churches of Saint Nicholas, Saint Martin, Saint Salvador and Saint Peter. The palaces of Monroy Palace, Carvajal-Girón and the Marquis of Mirabel.
Oliva de Plasencia: 16th century parish church of Saint Blas, ruins of the ancient city of Cáparra, Palace of the Counts of Oliva.
Villar de Plasencia: parish of Our Lady of the Assumption of the 16th century, two baroque hermitages of Saint Bartolomé and Antonio de Padua.
Cabezabellosa: parish church of Saint Lorenzo from the 16th century, the hermitages of Our Lady of the Castle, Saint Antonio and the Martyrs. Local constructions of the 16th century for the conduction of waters from mountain springs: La Cañera and El Pontón.
Jarilla: 16th century parish church. Remains of a small Roman temple on the hill of Piedraslabradas.
Casas del Monte: church of Saints Mártires Fabián and Sebastián.
Segura de Toro:berraco vetón (local constructions), celtic press.
Gargantilla:medieval castle.
Aldeanueva del Camino: Roman bridges, parish churches of Our Lady of Olmo and Saint Servando.
Hervás:Jewish quarter, Trinitarian convent - Church of Saint John the Baptist, Franciscan hospital, church Castillo de Santa María de Aguas Vivas and the square dating from the 13th century. Pérez Comendador Leroux Museum; tombstone of the hidalgo on the bridge of the Fuente Chica; interpretation center of the railway of Extremadura; museum of the motorcycle and the classic car.
Baños de Montemayor:popular architecture, Church of Saint Mary of the Assumption, church of Saint Catalina, interpretation center of the Molinería, interpretation center Via de la Plata, museum of the Roman baths and spa.
Puerto de Béjar: popular architecture, church of Our Lady of the Assumption, the bridge of the Magdalena, various Roman miliarios, the hermitage of the Humilladero, the hermitage of Saint Barbara, and the historic Via de la Plata under the viaduct, the historic garden of the Coto de Our Lady of Carmen (Peñacaballera).
Cantagallo: church of Our Lady of the Rosary and the hermitage of Christ of the Humilladero or Christ of the Battles..
Béjar:this town has a huge heritage that is worth visiting. Highlights include the medieval walls, churches of Romanesque origin such as Saint Mary Major, Santiago or Saint John Baptist, or the Ducal Palace. There are also several museums such as the Mateo Hernández Sacred Art Museum and the Jewish Museum. Other elements of interest are the Historic Garden declared a Cultural Interest and the industrial heritage highlighting the route of textile factories of the 19th and 20th century.
Infrastructure:
Greenway. 4 tunnels (Saint Lázaro tunnel in Plasencia is illuminated by the installation of Led type luminaires), 2 bridges, 1 viaduct, 1 walkway and several rest areas located in the Iron Bridge, Plasencia Olive Station, Villar de Plasencia Station and 2 viewpoints (del Jerte on the river and of Ambroz).
Facilities:
Hervás Station: Railway Museum of Extremadura and in its warehouse hostel and cafeteria restaurant.
Baños de Montemayor railway station: restored but its current use: children´s play area.
Puerto de Béjar railway station: cafeteria restaurant.
Béjar railway station: cafeteria restaurant, hostal and bike rental. More info>>
How to get there on public transport:
Train: Plasencia station. Renfe Medium Distance.
Bus. Alsa company. Cáceres – Salamanca line.
Connections:
Distance from Plasencia to Casas del Monte: 28 km.
This Greenway makes it easy to remember its railway past, thanks to the conservation of elements from the old railway line throughout the route: signal lights, signs, switches, etc, and, of course, the 3 restored stations featuring tourist services.
Km. 0
It is located between the municipal boundary of Casas del Monte and Jarilla. These points lying between municipal districts are not always easy to find. However, in this case, an asphalt road that branches off from the main N-630 road makes things easier. Just a few meters further on, a dirt trail on the right leads to the railway line. Although the beginning of the greenway is 300 m to the south of this crossing point, this is also a good place to start.
In 2020, work began to extend this corridor for another 22.6 km, from this point as far as Plasencia. It is very important to complete this route, since it forms part of the European project called Eurovelo EV1, the "Atlantic Coast Route." This European cycle route is more than 8,000 kilometres long, ranging from Norway to Faro in the south of Portugal. Its “Vía de la Plata” section has great potential for future development.
We set off through meadows, olive groves, wooded pastureland and farmland while slowly gaining altitude, which will be the general trend until we pass Puerto de Béjar. After crossing the local road leading to Casas del Monte, we come to the old station (km 2). We continue on through trenches excavated by the railroad before reaching an oak grove and then, on reaching the Garganta Ancha bridge, a riverside forest. After the bridge, a trail on the right enables us to reach the locality of Casas del Monte while avoiding the traffic.
Going through groves of holm oaks and cork trees, we come to the surroundings of Segura de Toro, which we can see in the distance in the Cruces Altas mountain range. The village and its natural swimming pools (which also exist in Casas del Monte and Gargantilla) can be reached via a road, after crossing the bridge over Garganta Grande (km 4.5).
Km. 8
Continuing on through wooded pastureland, and after crossing the Montesiños stream, we reach the old station of Aldeanueva del Camino and the station neighbourhood.
The railway line turns eastwards and runs alongside the dual carriageway as far as km 10. Aldeanueva del Camino, where it is easy to locate the original Roman road called Vía de la Plata, is nearby -it can be reached via a cement road that also provides access to Gargantilla, a village located to the right of the tracks.
We cross the Romanillo stream (km 11.5) as the landscape changes; we now see many common and Pyrenean oaks, as the railway line enters areas featuring trenches excavated by the railroad in this mountain range.
Km. 15
Hervás is nearby and we will pass by a series of farmhouses before actually entering the capital of the Ambroz, after passing under the CC-102 road. From now on, we will have to be a lot more careful, as we travel along the “street of the Vía” before reaching Hervás Station (km 15.5). This will be the first of the three stations that have been repurposed; in this case, as a hostel, café, museum and rural house. We can visit this must-see locality by going down the street called “paraje de la estación.”
If you are short on time, we recommend going straight to the Jewish quarter, which was declared a historic-artistic site in 1969. Its characteristic highland architecture features local materials, such as chestnut wood, adobe and granite, which make this Sephardic legacy handed down from 15th-century converts one of the best preserved today. Other attractions that make this a not-to-be-missed destination are the babbling Ambroz running through the locality, where you can refresh yourself on a hot day, and its rich historic-artistic heritage (churches of San Juan Bautista and Santa María, a former castle of the Knights Templar, museums).
After enjoying our cultural visit, if we go back the same way (the greenway) after crossing the street called Juan de la Plaza (another possible access route), we will come across one of the main features of the old railway line: the so-called “iron bridge.” It is an impressive 110-metre-long viaduct over the Ambroz River, with a metallic central span and granite arches on each side. After crossing the bridge, there is another approach road that leads down to the locality, featuring impressive views of Hervás and the houses on the street called “Sinagoga” (obviously part of the Jewish quarter), which hang above the Ambroz River.
With our camera and retina full of images, we continue on our way, passing by farmhouses and then through pastureland. We cross over the EX-205 road and the Balozano River, an affluent of the Ambroz, in a sector in which the railway line bends towards the west. We continue our ascent, which is now a bit steeper. The striking views of the valley make it worthwhile stopping beside the Baños Reservoir, with the village of Hervás in the background (km 20).
Km. 23
Our next stop: Baños de Montemayor Station. Although it has been restored, the station is no longer in use. Of course, Baños is another one of those charming localities in the north of Caceres. Its spa, which has been declared a Cultural Heritage Site and features the remains of old Roman thermal baths, and the “Vía de la Plata” interpretation centre are two good excuses for going down to visit the village (but remember: you will have to go back up again!).
After a level crossing (be careful!), the route follows the road to La Garganta, going through an area of deciduous woodland carpeting the foothills of the Béjar mountains. Hazelnut trees, maples, chestnut trees and oaks provide striking colours in autumn and pleasant shade in summer.
We cross the Garganta River along a magnificent walkway and immediately enter the route’s first tunnel (a 200-metre-long curved one), which is well equipped and illuminated. On leaving the tunnel, accompanied by views of the valley, we enter the province of Salamanca and soon come to Puerto de Béjar Station (km 27.5), which has also been restored and provides different services, as well as the station neighbourhood.
From here on, the route goes through the localities of Puerto de Béjar, Cantagallo and Béjar until completing the 42.20 km of the greenway.
Km. 31
The “small station,” which appears in Jose Luis Cuerda’s film “El bosque animado” (The Enchanted Forest), is now a pleasant cafeteria and restaurant featuring a flowery terrace, railway details and a lounge car inside. There is also a bike rental service. After passing the station, on our way down, we will have to cross the N-630 road near Puerto de Béjar. If we are careful, we can go along this road as far as the village. Puerto de Béjar stands out due to the remains of the original Roman road that gave rise to the “Vía de la Plata” route. We continue on to Cantagallo (km 31), where the view widens out and we come to a rest area. From here, there is a road leading to this small village.
Curiosity: José Luis Cuerda shot “El bosque animado” (1987), a critically acclaimed film that won five Goya awards. Although most of the shooting took place in the municipality of A Coruña, the film’s first scene features a steam engine travelling along the railway line between Cantagallo and Puerto de Béjar. The train is one of the film’s themes. Since this railway had closed in 1985, the installations that were still operational could be used for the film. Moreover, a new halt was built in Puerto de Béjar’s station.
On the way to Béjar, the capital of the homonymous Sierra de Béjar region, the railway line, road and dual carriageway run alongside each other. However, you can hardly notice. Thanks to the forest’s presence, the other communication routes do not detract from our tranquil journey. Furthermore, we can enjoy and relive the old railway line’s past thanks to elements such as signals, signs… A real attraction!
At about km 34.5, do not miss a track leading to an outstanding natural landmark, namely the old “cedro de la Francesa.” It is an enormous Atlas cedar that has withstood the passing of time, being more than twenty metres tall with a girth of around nine metres. The married couple formed by Monsieur Papauand his wife, known as “la Francesa,” lived on the estate where the cedar is located. Although the tree’s exact age is unknown, it is believed to be more than 150 years old and is one of the biggest trees in the Castile and León region.
Back on the railway line, a new iron bridge over the N-630 road takes us to the entrance of the emblematic Béjar station (km 36), a place for stopping and spending the night. The station’s buildings house the so-called “Estación Béjar Verde” (Green Béjar Station), which has been renovated to be used as a restaurant, cafeteria and hostel with 40 beds. There is also a bike rental service, as well as other active leisure options for enjoying in the surrounding area. The station likewise features a nice rest area, fountain and the possibility of exploring the remains of its railway past: water cranes, tanks, buffer stops and sidings in the rail yard. Undoubtedly, a place where you can have a good time imagining the old railway line.
Béjar is another or the route’s key points. It features all the services and important cultural heritage that is well worth visiting: its walls, Romanesque churches, museums, lively main square and an interesting legacy linked to its old textile industry. We can enter Béjar from the station or a little further on, before coming to the tunnel.
Km. 37
From the station, and following the railway line, we will see that the mound on which the town is built is crossed by a 372 metre long curved tunnel (km 37), which, curiously, is located 50 m under the level of the main square called Plaza Mayor! Although there is lighting inside the tunnel, the gate at the entrance is closed at night. This is also a good place for visiting the textile industry museum and touring the factories that made this a booming industrial town, in the 19th and 20th centuries, on the banks of the Cuerpo de Hombre River.
We continue on by crossing the river, whose name means Man’s Body, via another bridge before entering a second tunnel (200 m), going under the dual carriageway, bordering an industrial estate and emerging into the countryside, where ash trees, Pyrenean oaks and meadows bid farewell to the landscape of deciduous trees. Looking back, a picture-perfect scene is almost guaranteed: the mountain tops that stand out in the background are covered with snow almost all year round. It is worth mentioning that there is a signposted urban route that enables you to tour the town of Béjar’s entire historic district, which is of great interest to travellers.
Shortly after the level crossing over a local road, the route ends at the boundary of the municipal district of Navalmoral de Béjar (km 42.28). There are railway tracks from here on, although the route has been cleared. It is therefore easy to reach this village, which is one kilometre away. It is a bit more difficult by bike, especially if you do not have good suspension.
New projects underway plan to extend, in the following years, this itinerary both northwards, to link up with the section between Alba de Tormes and Salamanca, and southwards, to reach as far as the town of Plasencia.
This railway line was officially opened on June 21, 1896, with the objective of connecting the western side of the Iberian Peninsula.
To that end, the original company was restructured and renamed “Compañía de Explotación de los Ferrocarriles de M.C.P. y del Oeste.” Under this name, work began on this great iron backbone connecting Astorga, on the Compañía del Norte’s line from Madrid to Coruña, with Palazuelo, a junction in the Plasencia countryside that formed part of the line from Madrid to Caceres and Portugal. This new line provided access to two provincial capitals, Salamanca and Zamora, and passed through localities such as the town of Bejár or the commercial centres of Plasencia, Benavente and La Bañeza.
The line was publicly owned from 1928 onwards. A new company was created (“Compañía Nacional del Oeste”) to merge the area’s Iberian-gauge railways. The railroad played a crucial role during the Spanish Civil War, being used as a logistical tool by the rebels. However, due to a certain degree of abandonment, as was the case with other transversal lines in Spain, it was inexplicably closed in 1985, firstly only for passenger services and finally, in 1996, for all traffic. Only the branch line to Plasencia survived.
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CONDITIONED GREENWAY
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